Stratus
79 Wellington St. W., 36th floor | 416 865 1924 | stratusrestaurant.com
I’ve never been a stay-up-late kind of person. More of an early-to-bed, early-to-rise kind of gal. Those of us who function best during the early hours face a dilemma — where the heck can you get a decent breakfast downtown? I’m not talking Froot Loops and low fat milk — my firm is kind enough to provide those. Where can I get an actual breakfast? Better yet, if I have to squeeze in a breakfast meeting, where can I do that? (While I admire my firm’s commitment to this Most Important Meal of The Day, I find offering a client a bowl of All Bran detracts from the sophisticated professional aura I’m trying to cultivate.)
It is for this reason that a series of cranky friends and bleary-eyed clients found themselves rousted out of bed early to join me in trying some downtown breakfast places. The next three editions of Judge Foodie will be devoted to reviewing these destinations.
The first stop is Stratus, part of the Toronto Athletic Club, with which it shares its real estate atop the TD Waterhouse Tower at Wellington. When you step off the elevator at the 36th floor, the gym is to one side, and to the other, the sweet, sweet smell of bacon. Hardly fair.
Stratus opens at 7 am, which gives it the jump on many of the other breakfast places in the core. Also going for Stratus is the view — think a lake vista, a sunrise and the Island Airport coming to life. Inside, it’s linen tablecloths, understated decor and excellent service. The room, less than half full at this hour, is peaceful and people speak in hushed tones. Everyone here looks like they just came from the gym and aren’t going to risk anything that isn’t low-fat or twelve-grain.
While Stratus easily has the best selection of low-calorie and heart-healthy foods, they also indulge those who prefer the usual heartstopping delights like eggs Benedict ($17) and sides of bacon (though I suspect if you actually order one of these, there’s a bell that goes off somewhere in the gym and a personal trainer meets you at the elevator with reproachful eyes and a pair of body mass calipers).
The coffee is fresh and the staff keeps it topped up. The Heart Smart omelette with omega-3 eggs, grilled vegetables and snow goat cheese ($15) is fluffy and luscious. Our side of maple smoked bacon ($4) arrives and is crispy bliss — and gone in 20 seconds. My client, who ordered the buttermilk banana pancakes with fresh berries, cinnamon butter and maple syrup ($16) got the short end of the stick — the pancakes were so good she was forced to share them with the rest of us.
Next week, I venture to the other end of the breakfast spectrum, with a visit to OverEasy at Yonge and Wellington.
Judge Foodie’s verdict:
Highs: the view, the banana pancakes
Lows: being acutely aware that you’ve chosen bacon instead of barbells
Kirsten Thompson is a Toronto-based research lawyer and commercial litigator. Since her call to the bar in 2000, she estimates that her restaurant to courtroom ratio has been approximately 14:1. Thoughts? Comments? Ideas for a review? Email her.
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