Two years ago I started the Short Cellar, both this column and my own wine collection. The animating idea for both projects was simple: I wanted to see how I could improve moderately priced but well chosen wines by maturing them for short periods of 2-4 years.
My inaugural experiment was Cabernet Sauvignon from Chile. I bought several brands, sampled them, and then began aging a twin of each bottle. It seemed a good start: Cab Sauvignon is an excellent candidate for cellaring, and Chile is a great place to find this grape grown skilfully but sold cheaply, especially in comparison to pricey Napa Valley.
Now that they’ve had a couple years of aging, I’ve finally uncorked them to check on their progress. I’m pleased to report that the experiment was a success. All of them improved, but some excelled.
Here are my findings:
- Casa Lapostolle 2004 Cabernet Sauvignon (
$16.95[Ed. Note: No longer available], Chile, Vintages #398800) This luscious bottle was always good, but with time it has ripened like a plum sitting in the sun. The bottle aging has integrated all the powerful flavours into one harmonious whole. The result is a deep, sonorous wine tasting of black cherries and currants, accented with toast, cocoa and pepper. The 2007 vintage is in the LCBO now if you want to replicate my experiment. I found the aged 2004 utterly delicious – one of the best wines I’ve had in ages at this price range. 91/100
- Arboleda 2002 Cabernet Sauvignon (
$17.95[Ed. Note: 2002 no longer available], Chile, Vintages #606764) Two years ago, I celebrated this Arboleda for having a “a strangely pleasing combination of ripe lychee fruit and a cheap rose-scented perfume that my grandmother used to daub on her wattle.” I’m not sure this kind of wattle-related praise actually increases sales. In any case, time has ironed out these eccentricities. Like the Casa Lapostolle, the Arboleda has grown more mellow and integrated, although you can still find the grassy flavour that distinguishes all Chilean reds to some degree or another. This is a tasty, straightforward Cabernet. 89/100.
- Perez Cruz 2005 Cabernet Sauvignon (
$14.85[Ed. Note: 2005 no longer available], Chile, Vintages #694208) One of the primary effects of aging red wines is that they become less tannic. As the tannins recede, the fruity flavours in the wine emerge, allowing for a greater expression of balance and complexity. The 2005 Perez Cruz needed a couple years to dull the tannic edge, and now it’s positively chubby. It’s saturated with plush raspberry flavours and a nice hint of milk chocolate. The fruitiness is there in spades, but it lacks a little in the complexity department. This is an excellent bottle for those who like massive wines with smooth edges – the 2006 vintage is out now. 89/100.
Matthew Sullivan is a civil litigator in Toronto. He writes a weekly blog entry here on lawandstyle.ca. The Short Cellar column also appears in the print edition of Precedent. Matthew can be reached at matthew@lawandstyle.beta-site.ca. Follow along on Twitter: @shortcellar.