Sex sells – but inexplicably, sex is rarely used to sell wine. That’s why I was pretty smug when I came up with a marketing scheme that couldn’t fail. Imagine it… A new line of wines called “A Nice Rack’o’Wines”… Each grape variety would have its own catchy moniker, like “Stacked Sauvignon Blanc” and “Cabernet Corset”… To top it off, every bottle would be sheathed in a tasteful black label featuring a large picture of a plus-size model’s cleavage.
My plan may sound harebrained, but you can imagine my frustration when someone beat me to the punch. The Canadian wine company Jackson Triggs has just launched a new brand called “Strut – the Wine with Legs”. It can be found only at Wine Rack outlets around Ontario. Strut is sure to grab your attention because its label boldly displays a full-length photograph of a pair of legs that just don’t know when to quit.
Leggy women have a storied history in the great tradition in the Canadian wine. Anyone who grew up in Ontario in the 1980s will remember the commercials for Hochtaler Wine (with a Cabaret dancer kicking her legs and purring “It’s always a good year!”) or Spumante Bambino (“What a vino!”).
Strut claims to market itself to stylish women in the same demographic as Carrie Bradshaw. However, I think this is coy. The Victoria’s Secret catalogue is also directed at women, but somehow it finds its way into the hands of discerning men as well. In my view, wine geared solely for women should feature something more than marketing and nice calves; it could be crafted by a female wine-maker, or offer a low-calorie profile (like some California wines “for women”).
How does Strut taste? The same for either gender. The white wines are a little saggy, but the reds are definitely worth a try; they show off attractive ripeness, which is a rare thing for inexpensive Ontario Merlot.
Here are my detailed notes:
- Strut 2007 Cab Couture (Cabernet Sauvignon-Merlot) ($11.95 from The Wine Rack) is the pick of the litter, with good poise and polish. It is well-endowed with fruit, with a hint of spice and maybe a little leather under the covers. Great value. 87/10.
- Strut 2007 Red Over Heels (Merlot) ($11.95) is attractive at first but over time you realize it lacks depth or complexity. Rougher and more acidic red than the Cab Couture. 85/100.
- Strut 2008 Well Heeled White (Riesling-Gewurztraminer) ($11.95) is clean, refreshing, even a little fizzy. Tasty. Sometimes superficiality is just what you want. 86/100.
- Strut 2008 Chardonista (Chardonnay) (
$11.95[Ed. note: No longer available]) comes on strong with overstated floral notes and a cloying aftertaste. This is one strutty wine. 83/100.
Matthew Sullivan is a civil litigator in Toronto. He writes a weekly blog entry here on lawandstyle.ca. The Short Cellar column appears in the print edition of Precedent. Matthew can be reached at matthew@lawandstyle.beta-site.ca NEW! Follow along on Twitter: @shortcellar.