Does the LCBO’s monopoly keep the best wines out of your grasp? One of my favourite wine writers, John Szabo, seems to think so. He recently flamed the LCBO for ensuring that Ontarians get stuck with mediocre wine. His attack came in an unlikely place, a newsletter for the website WineAlign (where we both are critics) which usually supplies mere tasting notes, not philippics.
Szabo’s point is that the only way to get wine into Ontario’s mass market is through the LCBO, an expensive and often frustrating process given that the Board is a complex government bureaucracy, not a normal business. Decisions are made slowly and wineries have to jump through a lot of hoops before any product gets cleared for sale. Large wineries that produce plonk en masse are more than happy to play ball. But the small, craft wineries that produce the best bottles can’t be bothered, especially if their wines sell out in countries (and provinces) with less red tape.
To illustrate his point, Szabo mentions the new line of rosé wine that is to appear on LCBO shelves on May 15: “It would be challenging to assemble a more boring collection of rosés from around the world….Considering the truly delicious, versatile, characterful rosés that are produced around the world on purpose, this is an embarrassing selection. I understand that few consumers take rosé seriously, but it’s no wonder, given what they’ve been exposed too.”
Criticism of the LCBO is as common among wine lovers as stained teeth, but rarely is it expressed publically with such exasperation. I hope this kind of unvarnished editorial keeps coming out of Szabo’s pen.
In the meantime, I’m worried about the reputation of the poor, benighted style of wine called rosé. Sure, most of the rosé we get in Ontario is crap. I could make a better wine in my kitchen using Frutopia and rubbing alcohol. But there are a few which are truly exceptional, and here are my favourites:
- Ackerman 2009 Rémy Pannier Anjou Rosé ($11.95, LCBO #12641)
Unlike a lot of Rosé, which is electric pink, this gem from Anjou is a pale salmon colour. However, the pallor conceals great richness and concentration; cinnamon, well-ripened pear and ruby grapefruit provide a complex, feathered palate. There are no sharp edges or off-notes — this is an easygoing wine that’s undemanding and utterly delicious. 90/100 - Perrin & Fils 2009 Tavel Rosé (
$19.95[Ed. note: 2009 no longer available], Vintages #680801)
Tavel is a subregion of France’s Southern Rhone, and it’s famous for its excellent Rosé. The Perrin & Fils 2009 Rosé is a splendid example of what makes Tavel great. It’s bone dry with a rough texture that adds earthiness and crunchiness to the fresh fruit flavours. The dryness and acidity make this a truly versatile food wine: try it with roast chicken, lobster, or spinach salad. 90/100
Matthew Sullivan is a civil litigator in Toronto. He blogs weekly here on lawandstyle.ca. The Short Cellar column also appears in the print edition of Precedent. Matthew can be reached at matthew@lawandstyle.beta-site.ca. Follow along on Twitter: @shortcellar.
Photo by Karl Baron