Groucho Marx once observed that he wouldn’t join any club that would deign to admit him. This is not merely a joke — it’s a universal truth. The more easily accessible something is, the less people want it, value it, care for it. This paradox was particularly irksome to me during my law school days, when my willingness to flirt with anything that looked roughly viviparous was the very thing that disqualified me from attracting a date.
Robert Mondavi died almost exactly 2 years ago at the age of 94. His wine — like my love life — is another illustration of the availability paradox. The man was a titan. He indelibly changed New World wine by establishing something we all take for granted today: bottles marketed with single grape varieties (like Merlot), unlike the European tradition of labelling wines by region (like Bordeaux, which blends Merlot and/or other grapes). Along the way, he created some of California’s best bottles.
The problem with Mondavi wines today is that they became a victim of their own success. Their commercial popularity has made them ubiquitous, which makes them seem less impressive. Over time, any press exposure, even positive press, erodes the public’s view of a brand. Mondavi himself seems to have felt this way, criticizing his own sons for over-promoting the winery’s cheap wines. A few years before he died, he told the New York Times, “We’ve got to get our image back, and that’s going to take time.”
I recently tasted a broad swathe of Mondavi’s wines. His expensive wines are still world class. And some of his inexpensive bottles are superb value. Here are my favourites:
- Robert Mondavi 2008 Private Selection Pinot Noir ($17.95, LCBO #465435)
This is a real treat simply because it’s so difficult to find a decent Pinot under $20. This wine is on the exuberant side, with lots of cherry and strawberry character. However, it also offers good spice and elegance, making a balanced package. 88/100 - Robert Mondavi Winery 2008 Napa Valley Fumé Blanc (
$22.95[Ed. note: 2008 no longer available], Vintages #221887)
Mondavi invented the term “Fumé Blanc” as a better way of marketing premium, oak-aged Sauvignon Blanc. This beautiful white has the fresh flavours of papaya and pear, but the acidic edges are softened by the oak and complemented by hints of herb and sweetgrass. A great wine for oysters or smoked seafood. 89/100 - Robert Mondavi Winery 2006 Napa Valley Cabernet Sauvignon (
$35.95[Ed. note: 2006 no longer available], Vintages #255513)
This is a superb bottle and closely rivals its vastly more expensive sibling, the Reserve Cab ($139.95). The articulate and complex nose has aromas of fennel, anise and tobacco leaf. These flavours follow on the palate, which is full, textured and gorgeously balanced. This wine is an intense experience — but it will be far better in 4-7 years, so consider buying some for a future special occasion. 93/100
Matthew Sullivan is a civil litigator in Toronto. He blogs weekly here on lawandstyle.ca. The Short Cellar column also appears in the print edition of Precedent. Matthew can be reached at matthew@lawandstyle.beta-site.ca. Follow along on Twitter: @shortcellar.
Groucho portrait by Milton Johanides