This week, the Short Cellar brings you reviews of the 2008 Le Clos Jordanne wines that are currently available in the LCBO.
The year 2008 was a challenging one, capped by a lousy harvest. For good and bad, Le Clos’s minimalistic approach exemplifies how a few transient days of sunshine or rain are captured indefinitely inside a bottle of wine.
Clos Jordanne 2008 “Le Grand Clos” Chardonnay, Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario ($65, Vintages #34561)
Like all of Le Clos’ 2008 vintage, the fruitiness in Le Grand Clos comes at a muted volume. This premium Chardonnay makes up for it, however, with complexity. The nose is flinty and smoky, while the palate is a diaphanous blend of tarragon, tangerine, pear and vanilla. A soft, intricate wine that will continue to improve for 3-5 years. In terms of absolute value, however, it will have trouble competing with a well-selected Burgundy. 91/100
Clos Jordanne 2008 “Talon Ridge” Chardonnay, Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario ($37, Vintages #143974)
The Talon Ridge Chardonnay achieves a lovely integration of mellow oak and fruit. It is less outgoing than the Village Reserve, instead offering refinement and texture. However, it lacks the tremendous pop that made the previous vintage of Talon Ridge so successful. 89/100
Clos Jordanne 2008 “Village Reserve” Chardonnay, Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario ($25, Vintages #33936)
Le Clos’ founding winemaker, Thomas Bachelder, calls this wine “our favourite Village Reserve to date” and I see what he means. In the challenging conditions of 2008, the difference between the cheapest and most expensive bottles is less dramatic. This Chardonnay is gregarious and accessible, offering well-modulated notes of tropical fruit driven by strong acidity. Aromas of lemon curd, vanilla and smoke add character. 89/100
Clos Jordanne 2008 “Le Grand Clos” Pinot Noir, Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario ($70, Vintages #34553)
This is a sleek Pinot that showcases texture and polish rather than intensity. The finish is particularly good: a long and interesting arc of flavours. The well-delineated flavour of herbs and red cherries makes the palate tart and elegant. It is still developing and will be best from 2012 to perhaps 2016. 91/100
Clos Jordanne 2008 “Le Clos Jordanne Vineyard” Pinot Noir, Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario ($40, Vintages #33902)
Classic flavours of smoke, twig and pine needles make this Pinot attractive, but it lacks the complexity and subtlety which would justify its price. Although some time in the cellar may help, the window for maturation is not large: the note of dried flowers suggests that this wine is beginning to age already. 88/100
Clos Jordanne 2008 “Village Reserve” Pinot Noir, Twenty Mile Bench, Ontario ($25, Vintages #33936)
This is a light and lithe Pinot Noir. The notes of red cherry are explosive on the palate because they’re so crisp and vivid. It has a fine-grained and textured character which I enjoyed, although there isn’t a lot of nuance. Best with food, like a mushroom risotto. 88/100
Matthew Sullivan is a civil litigator in Toronto. He blogs weekly here on lawandstyle.ca. The Short Cellar column also appears in the print edition of Precedent. Matthew can be reached at matthew@lawandstyle.beta-site.ca. Follow along on Twitter: @shortcellar.