Little Anthony’s Italian + Bar
121 Richmond Street W. (at York) | 416-368-2223 | littleanthonysrestaurant.com
Famous for plush velour and a decadent interior, Little Anthony’s on the corner of Richmond and York has undergone a makeover. Gone are the brocade and half-round booths, gone are the linen tablecloths and impeccably turned out waitstaff. Banished along with them is the name — Little Anthony’s Italian Ristorante — in favour of the hipper, cooler Little Anthony’s Italian + Bar (or, hipper still, L.A.).
Yes, it is open concept. Yes, it is tastefully decorated. Yes, it has a new menu. But it’s a bit like that senior partner in the corner office — you know the guy — the one with the comb-over, the fast car, and the Converse All-Stars. Sure, all the trappings are there – except that when he opens his mouth, he talks about “the Google” and refers to his assistant as his “secretary”.
Little Anthony’s new look, however, is not to be dismissed — the open concept works and the bank of 12-foot high windows on the west side lets in light, something the previous incarnation of Little Anthony’s hadn’t seen in decades. The downside of the floor-to-ceiling windows and open concept is that you are on display — to other diners, to passers-by, even to drivers in their BMWs waiting for the light to change. This is not the place to dine if you are having an affair, retaining criminal counsel, or discussing defection from your firm.
The menu, previously a multi-page affair with significant heft, has been pared down to a single sheet. So too the wine list; while the by-the-bottle choices are okay, the by-the-glass selection is somewhat limited.
Also new is the chef: Aaron Foster, who has done a tour of duty in the kitchens at Deq at the Ritz-Carlton and Crush Wine Bar. His execution here, however, is solidly average, and never really soars. Having said that, our starter, bacon and gorgonzola stuffed dates ($8.50) is actually one of the items that soars. The smokiness of the bacon with the sweetness of the dates is a perfect combination.
Next, we order the antipasto board (four items for $19.75; pictured above) and I invite our waitress to select for us the best four items of the nine listed. The parma ham and agrodolce eggplant are good, but not exceptional; so too the other meat selections.
While we wait for the main, the house lights go down…and then back up…and then back down again. Clearly, the staff are still figuring out the new light switches. One thing that isn’t new is the music: Hall & Oates, Air Supply, and Cat Stevens. We will give the owners the benefit of the doubt and assume that the music selection is a deliberate attempt at hipster irony instead of being simply woefully outdated.
The main arrives. My companion and I split the handmade ravioli alla formaggio ($22.75) and a side dish of roasted mushrooms tossed in aged balsamic ($7.25). The mushrooms are ordinary, but the ravioli is another dish that soars. With mascarpone, buffalo ricotta, and asiago maple mousse in a red sauce, it is light and the flavours meld beautifully. The hints of citrus are a surprise and keep it fresh.
It’s a shame more people aren’t here to experience it. It’s a Friday night and the restaurant is almost empty; the diners that are there are almost certainly from the nearby hotel and/or on their way to the performing arts centre. True, this is a soft opening — the grand opening was set for April 18 — but owner Andreas Antoniou is going to have to work to fill the space with the Bay Street crowd and convince them this is more than just a comb-over.
Judge Foodie’s verdict:
Highs: The ravioli, the openness, the fact that you can get a seat on a Thursday or Friday.
Lows: The fishbowl feeling, the golden-years crowd, the music.
Kirsten Thompson is a Toronto-based research lawyer and commercial litigator. Since her call to the bar in 2000, she estimates that her restaurant to courtroom ratio has been approximately 14:1. You can e-mail her at kthompson@tgf.ca