This completely weird thing happens to me when it gets stupid hot out: I don’t feel like eating. I just wanna drink iced tea and vitaminwater and smoothies and take about five showers a day (yes, I am aware this is actually completely common, but it feels weird). I also don’t really feel much like cooking. But since this column is about both of those things, the next best thing I can talk about is something I could maybe get my butt off the couch to do in this weather: chilled soup.
Chilled soup is to the summer blahs what hot soup is to the winter blahs. Especially chilled soup with with fresh herbs and summery-sweet peas. And a dollop of sour cream. And maybe some garlicky grilled crostini. Oh, mama.
I’m about to tell you to do some manual labour (even though it’s hot), because there is nothing quite like fresh shelled peas. Fresh peas have a mild, sweet flavour that you simply can’t get from canned or frozen peas. They can brighten up pastas, risottos, soups and salads, and are fabulous just slightly steamed with a bit of butter and salt. They generally show up starting in the spring, but I generally see them in Toronto grocery stores this time of year — and they’re only around for a few weeks, so take advantage and choose your pea pods wisely!
This soup is great warm or cold, brings out the natural sweetness of the peas by adding a bit of fresh mint and basil. Served warm, it only takes minutes to throw together (not counting shelling time). If you’re in a rush, you can always have it as a hot soup, then throw the leftovers in the fridge for a no-fuss, no-waiting-in-line-for-the-microwave chilled soup for lunch the next day (especially since the flavours will develop overnight in the fridge). However, since cold or room-temperature foods tend to require more seasoning, you may want to reserve some salt to add to your lunch. If you’ve got time to make this ahead for guests or dinner, then I recommend at least four hours of chilling time. For the impatient ones, you can try to speed up the process in your freezer if you have room, but keep an eye on it.
Substitution time: if you can’t find fresh peas in the pod, then there are some decent frozen ones that will do as a substitute. Some grocery stores also sell pre-shelled peas in a bag from local farms, which are great as long as they’re fresh (examine them carefully; you want firm ones, not mushy). You can also sub in different herbs (tarragon or dill might be nice) and toppings (crème fraiche? yogurt?) as you like. For something a little extra, spread some nice, soft goat’s cheese on your crostini, and chill the bowls in the freezer 15 minutes in advance.
Chilled Pea Soup with Mint and Basil
Serves 4
2 tbsp olive oil
1 onion, diced
2 cloves garlic, minced
Pinch crushed red chiles
3 cups fresh shelled peas*
3 cups chicken or vegetable stock
2 cups milk
2 tbsp chopped fresh basil
2 tbsp chopped fresh mint
Salt and pepper
Juice of 1/2 lemon
Sour cream (optional)
For garlic crostini:
8 baguette slices
1 clove garlic, peeled and sliced in half lengthwise
* = 1 pound of peas in the pod will yield about 1 cup of shelled peas
1. In a large pot, heat olive oil on medium-low and gently sauté onion, garlic and chiles.
2. Add peas and stock, bringing to a boil. Reduce to a simmer for about 10 minutes.
3. In a blender or food processor (or with an immersion blender), puree soup until smooth. Return to a bowl or container that will fit into your fridge, then stir in milk, basil and mint, reserving some of the herbs for garnish.
4. If serving warm, keep heat on medium and stir until heated through, then season with salt and pepper to taste and squeeze in lemon juice. For cold soup, chill in fridge, then add seasoning to taste before serving. Place a dollop of sour cream on top, or swirl it into the soup gently for a more dramatic effect. Garnish with remaining fresh herbs.
5. To make crostini, toast baguette slices under a broiler for a few minutes per side, watching carefully to avoid burning (or to beat the heat, throw onto a grill on direct medium heat, turning once to toast each side lightly). While still hot, rub each slice with the flat side of the garlic clove gently. Drizzle with olive oil and serve alongside soup.
Sara Chan is a newly called Toronto lawyer. Her favourite food group is pork. Sara’s column appears every other Tuesday here on lawandstyle.ca.
Photo by Lee Jordan