This week’s weather blip aside, I think we can more or less say it’s spring, so let’s take a moment to reflect on the winter we just had. Let’s mark it and remember it because we got off so easy, with barely a Snowpocalypse in sight and ridiculously mild temperatures. And maybe in 10 years when we’re in total global meltdown, we can look back on it and say: Hey, it’s cool guys, there’s no such thing as global warming, because, remember the Winter of 2011?
So, I’m calling it “2011: The winter that thought it was fall.” And in honour of stuff acting like it’s other stuff, let’s discuss orzo: the pasta that fronts like it’s rice.
Before you ask whether that’s even a thing (because it is — remember Rice-a-Roni?), orzo is an incredibly versatile pasta because it’s great cold or hot, serves as a small pasta suitable for soups, or acts as a substitute for rice in pilafs and salads. One of my favourite ways to serve orzo cold is in a Nicoise-style pasta salad, complete with a lemony anchovy dressing, olives, tuna, fresh cherry tomatoes, green beans, chopped spinach and big, hearty chunks of boiled egg.
Orzo can also be used as a substitute for rice in this week’s take on a mushroom risotto, rendering a less starchy side dish that still retains great earthy flavours (and can even be reheated as leftovers, which cannot be said of regular risotto, which tends to get gummy and heavy if not consumed immediately). While you still need to tend to this dish the way you would a regular risotto (read: constant stirring required), it takes about half the time to cook and can also be kept warm and covered before the last step, leaving you to prep the rest of your dinner if you need to.
You can do this dish more economically if you skip the porcini mushrooms and only use creminis, but they’re worth it for the added flavour and definitely class up the dish. Make sure you rinse them thoroughly in cool water, rubbing gently between your fingers to remove any grit, then soak in hot water for at least 20 minutes. Make sure you keep the soaking liquid for this recipe! That’s where the best mushroomy flavour comes from. Serve as a quick vegetarian main (omitting the bacon), or as a side accompanying chicken, fish or pork.
Mushroom and Bacon Orzo Risotto
1 tbsp butter
1 tbsp olive oil
2 shallots, chopped
1 cup chopped cremini mushrooms
⅓ cup dried porcini mushrooms, soaked and drained well, liquid reserved
2 cups orzo
3 cups finely chopped kale
3 slices thick cut bacon, diced and cooked until crispy, drained on paper towel (optional)
2 ¼ cups chicken or vegetable stock
1 cup reserved porcini soaking liquid*
¼ cup dry sherry or white wine
1 sprig fresh thyme
handful chopped parsley
⅓ cup grated Parmesan or Pecorino cheese
1 tsp grated lemon zest
salt and pepper to taste
*if not using porcinis, just use another cup of chicken or veg stock
1. Heat oil and butter in a large saucepan (you could also use 1 tbsp reserved bacon fat in place of olive oil). Add shallots and cremini mushrooms and cook gently on medium heat until mushrooms begin to soften.
2. Add orzo and continue to stir, until orzo begins to toast to a light golden brown. Add kale and porcini mushrooms, and stir until kale begins to wilt.
3. Add stock, porcini liquid, sherry and thyme, bring to a boil, then reduce to simmer, stirring often for 9-10 minutes until al dente.
4. Stir in bacon, cheese, parsley, and lemon zest. Season to taste.
Sara Chan is a Toronto-based entertainment lawyer, food enthusiast, unprofessional home chef and even less professional food photographer. Her favourite food group is pork.