Until fairly recently, my only understanding of figs was limited to the “dried” or “newton” variety. In either case, I didn’t pay them much attention, until I tasted a fresh fig for the first time. Mind you, it was also stuffed with melted taleggio cheese and wrapped in prosciutto, but even on their own, fresh figs are the business. Naturally sweet and soft, with crunchy, crackly seeds, figs can be rinsed and popped in the mouth whole — no peeling or fuss required. They pair well with yogurt and a drizzle of honey, and can serve as pizza topping or star in a salad. They are best friends with cured pork and cheese (incidentally, also two of my best friends). Where had they been hiding all these years? (The Internet says they were hiding in California, which produces 98 percent of North America’s fresh figs. They are also apparently hiding in Oakville).
Figs are about as in season as they can be in Ontario right now, meaning they’re still imported from California, but they’re currently the more affordable and available than at any other time of the year. Figs tend to spoil quickly, though (often after a day or two home from the store) so you want to use them up quickly. Figs are also a “digestion aid” (read: “mild laxative”), so instead of scarfing down a whole pint on your own, why not stretch out their goodness by making them into a jam that can keep in your fridge for two weeks? A sweet-meets-savoury jam with caramelized onions and a touch of honey? That you can serve with a crusty baguette and some nice cheese and a keg-sized glass of wine? That you can put in a grilled brie cheese sandwich? That you could spread on some crostini with a bit of prosciutto and some melted manchego cheese as a fancy appetizer? Seriously, there’s no reason not to do this.
Now, I am aware that I recently crapped all over the urge to preserve seasonal fruits. But this jam involves no jar-boiling or equipment or pectin; just a slow simmer on the stove, and maybe a pretty jar to put it in if you want to give away the extras as a gift (you probably won’t).
When shopping for figs, you’re likely to see either the Black Mission variety, with their dark, plum-like skins; or Kadota figs, whose skin is fresh bright green. Either type will work in this recipe, but I find the Kadota figs are a bit less sweet and the skins hold up a bit more, if you like a chunkier jam. You can control the sweetness level by adding more or less honey, depending on your preference. Make sure to choose figs that are plump and tender, but not mushy. Handle gently, as their skin can bruise easily, and use them up within a day or two (store them in the fridge if not using right away). Store in a sealed jar or container in the fridge for up to 2 weeks.
Fig and Onion Jam
2 pints fresh figs
3 tbsp vegetable oil
1 large onion, diced
2 tbsp port or sherry (optional)
3-4 tbsp (heaping) honey
2 tbsp balsamic vinegar
1 tbsp lime juice
Salt and pepper to taste
1. Rinse figs and remove stems. Cut into quarters and set aside.
2. In a medium-sized saucepan, heat oil on medium-high heat, then add onions. Toss to coat in oil, then reduce heat to medium, sprinkle onions with a large pinch of salt, cooking onions gently until they turn golden brown. Stir frequently to avoid burning on bottom.
3. Deglaze pan by stirring in sherry or port, scraping up browned bits from bottom (if not using, you can deglaze with a few tablespoons of water). Add figs, honey, balsamic vinegar and lime juice, stirring gently to combine. Reduce heat to simmer gently, uncovered, for about 30 minutes or until figs are broken down and you have a thick jam.
4. Season with salt and pepper to taste. When jam is cooled, remove to small glass jars or Tupperware containers and store in the fridge. Jam can be eaten right away, but will develop flavour overnight in the fridge.
Sara Chan is a newly called Toronto lawyer. Her favourite food group is pork. Sara’s column appears every other Tuesday here on lawandstyle.ca.
Photo by Rubber Slippers In Italy