By this time of year I would normally be talking about springtime vegetables, how BBQ season is already here and how you should be planting herbs and vegetables for the summer. In three years of writing this column, I’ve learned that seasonality (weather- or produce-based) is my key source of inspiration. And considering the sad sack state of both weather and spring produce lately, I’ll admit that the well is running a little dry right now. I scraped frost off my windshield last week. That ish ain’t right.
Add to that the fact that after today, there will only be two more installments of the biweekly version of Edible Witness, and I’m feeling even more pressure to do something amazing as I wind things down (speaking of which: suggestions and requests for the final two are more than welcome).
But in the absence of something better, I am falling back on my fallback: you get to see the pasta dish that is my go-to, when I simply can’t think of anything else to make for dinner and it takes so little brainpower at this point that I barely need to think about what I’m doing. Don’t worry — it’s my fallback for a reason, being that it’s quick, hearty and easily adaptable depending on what vegetables you have on hand. This recipe works for all different types of pasta, although I do love it with orecchiette best, since the “little ears” are usually ridged and do a great job of retaining the sauce, which cooks into the pasta at the end.
Play with this as much as you like — I find that as long as the sausage and some kind of vegetable are present (whether use use the peas, chopped kale or spinach, wilted arugula, or some diced fennel), this is enough to make the dish pop. Mushrooms add a beautiful earthy balance against the lemon zest and cheese, and tomatoes can add some acidity and body to the dish, but neither are absolutely required. Note: if you substitute in a heartier leafy green (like kale or rapini), or fennel for the peas, be sure to saute those earlier with the mushrooms rather than adding at the end. Spinach or arugula can just be added at the end to wilt slightly before serving.
Orecchiette with Sausages, Mushrooms and Peas
1 lb orecchiette
Olive oil
3 Italian pork or turkey sausages, casings removed
2–3 cloves garlic, smashed
Pinch of crushed chili flakes
8–10 cremini or shiitake mushrooms, sliced
2 plum tomatoes, diced
1/2 cup chicken stock or white wine
1 1/2 cups fresh or frozen peas
Grated Parmigiano Reggiano or Pecorino cheese
1 tsp lemon zest
2 tbsp chopped fresh flat-leaf parsley (optional)
1 tbsp butter
Salt and pepper
1. In a large skillet, heat a tablespoon or two of olive oil on medium-high heat. Pinch the sausage into the pan in pieces, breaking up into smaller pieces with the end of a flat wooden spoon as it browns. Remove browned sausage to a bowl and set aside. Put pasta on to boil.
2. Return skillet to stove and heat another 2 tbsp of oil on medium heat. Add garlic and chili and saute gently for a minute. Add mushrooms and saute for about 5 minutes, until they begin to soften. Add tomatoes and stock or wine, and bring to a boil, then reduce to a gentle simmer until tomatoes begin to break down.
3. Cook pasta to about two minutes short of its cooking directions — you want it to be firmer than al dente but still pliable. Reserve a cup or so of the pasta water and then drain. Add contents of the skillet to the pot you cooked the pasta on and return it to the stove. Moisten with a few tablespoons at a time of the pasta water if the sauce has dried up, and allow to simmer and thicken slightly. It’s ok if it’s a little watery — that’s going to get cooked back into the pasta.
4. Add the parboiled pasta and peas to the pot and stir frequently over medium heat for a minute or so, allowing the pasta to absorb the sauce (test it to see — if it’s still not cooked and you need more sauce, add some more pasta water). Grate cheese and lemon zest over the pot, add parsley and stir in the butter until melted. Salt and pepper to taste and garnish with extra grated cheese, if desired.
Sara Chan is a Toronto-based entertainment lawyer, food enthusiast, unprofessional home chef and even less professional food photographer. Her favourite food group is pork.