The Rectory Café
102 Lakeshore Ave, Ward’s Island | 416-203-2152 | therectorycafe.com
For those of us who while away our hours in glass-encased towers, eye level with falcons and pigeons (and oddly, mammoth-sized spiders; seriously, what’s up with that?), it’s easy to forget that this fine city is also a lakefront city. And for most downtown dwellers, the aforementioned lake is mere steps away. It’s a shame we don’t actually make use of that fact.
Which brings me to the Rectory Café. It is located on Ward’s Island, a short ferry ride ($7 return) from the downtown core. So short, in fact, that the travel time from my office to the shores of the island took me 22 minutes. For most of us, the commute home is longer.
Now, let’s be clear — the Rectory Café is not a three-starred Michelin destination. It is unlikely you will impress clients with it, nor will you wax poetic about the cuisine. However, what it lacks in culinary acumen it makes up for in setting. The Rectory Café is about location, location, location.
The Rectory Café is a lovely two-storey home built in 1948; its interior has been renovated and the main floor serves as the dining room. The real appeal, however, is the enormous patio with its canopy of mature trees, the dappled sun and the waterfront setting with an idyllic view of lapping waves and bobbing sailboats.
The menu is not vast: six sandwiches, four mains and eight appetizers, with half the options being vegetarian-friendly. The wine list is slightly longer, with bottles (all VQA Ontario) well under $100; the usual array of beer and cocktails is also available.
My dining companion and I start with the “sun-blushed” tomato hummus with kalamata olives and toasted flatbread ($10). “Sun blushed” confuses us — neither “sun-ripened” nor “sun-dried,” we assume “sun-blushed” is some mid-way transformative tomato state. Regardless, such tomatoes make for a tasty hummus.
I opt for the grilled flat iron steak with potato wedges, grilled asparagus and beet-horseradish sour cream ($24) for my main, while my dining companion tries the grilled salmon tostada with mango-black bean salsa and avocado vinaigrette ($22). When the steak arrives, I’m startled by the shocking pink mound that accompanies it — but then I remember the beet-horseradish sour cream side. The pop of colour on the plate is intriguing, and the simple beet-horseradish combination works well with the steak. The steak itself, however, is overdone (medium instead of the medium rare I ordered).
The salmon, too, has an interesting presentation, drizzled as it is in green paste. This was not quite the avocado vinaigrette I was expecting but it, too, works well with the dish. The salmon is slightly overdone for my taste, but otherwise the dish is a light summery selection that is perfect for the balmy setting. Visiting again, I would probably order the brisket burger ($14; $16 with bacon) as it seems to be the most popular choice amongst the patrons.
We pass on dessert, but I take note of the fact that you can stroll around the island or back to the ferry with one of their premium sodas or some ice cream. With that, we call it a night and meander back to the ferry, where we’re treated to a fantastic nighttime view of the city.
Despite what I can only characterize as fairly ordinary food, the Rectory Café is nonetheless a fantastic and effortless getaway. Don’t have a cottage? In under half an hour, you and the girls can be beachfront with a bottle (or three) of sauvignon. Need to unwind and pretend that disastrous closing never happened? Call the guys and head over for a brew. I guarantee that within half an hour, you will have forgotten the city even exists.
Judge Foodie’s verdict:
Highs: scenic garden setting, waterfront location, easy access
Lows: average food, limited selection
Kirsten Thompson is a Toronto-based research lawyer and commercial litigator. Since her call to the bar in 2000, she estimates that her restaurant to courtroom ratio has been approximately 14:1. Thoughts? Comments? Ideas for a review? Email her. Follow Judge Foodie on Twitter: @Judge_Foodie