There are a lot of swell bargains kicking around the LCBO these days, and I used the Easter long weekend to crack into as many of them as possible. Now that the mists of my long, debilitating hangover are finally beginning to clear, I thought I would share tasting notes for my top pics:
- Boekenhoutskloof 2007 “The Wolftrap” South Africa (
$13.95[Ed. note: No longer available], Vintages #626333)
The Wolftrap is another interesting case of the New World trying its hand at a distinctly Old World style. In this case, it is South Africa masquerading as south France by making this blend of Syrah, Mouvèdre and Viognier – a classic combination in the Rhone Valley for spicy, wild wines. This is wild alright – both the nose and the palate are outrageously complex: peppercorns, pencil lead, smoke, Nestle Cocoa Powder and brambles sizzle out of the glass. Viognier is a white grape that adds floral lift and some much appreciated lightness to this strange menagerie of flavours. This wine would get top marks for character alone, but add to this the fact that it is less than $14 and you have a true star. 89/100
- L.A. Cetto 2003 Nebbiolo “Reserve Privée” Baja, Mexico (
$18.95[Ed. note: 2003 no longer available], Vintages #590182)
Mexico is not really a prime winemaking destination, especially when it comes to a grape like Nebbiolo, which is almost exclusively grown in Italy, where it creates the famous and very expensive Barolo. OK, I confess – I bought this odd wine by accident. But I’m glad I did, because it is one of the best values I’ve seen at Vintages in ages, especially considering that it is an older vintage that comes to you perfectly aged. It is inky and concentrated, with the undertones of tar and violets that are classic to Nebbiolo. Time has also given it a nice earthiness. Notwithstanding its deep flavours, it is medium-bodied and easy to drink. Dangrously easy. But save a bottle to open in a couple more years – Nebbiolo has fantastic capacity to mature. 90/100
- Domaine Berthet-Rayne 2005 Chateauneuf-du-Pape, France (
$43.95[Ed. note: No longer available], Vintages #78741)
Chateauneuf-du-Pape (“the New House of the Pope”) refers to the days when the pope vacated tempestuous Rome for the politically hospitable region around Avignon in southern France. The intricate, intense wines of Chateauneuf-du-Pape are never cheap, but the Domaine Berthet-Rayne is actually fairly well-priced considering how delicious it is. It boasts swirling flavours of liquorice, dried leaves, and black cherries. It won’t be ready to drink until perhaps 2011, but will evolve nicely for 7-8 years after that. I especially like it because this wine has real personality: assertive, self-assured, and an attention hound. It’s got my attention. 92/100.
Matthew Sullivan is a civil litigator in Toronto. He writes a weekly blog entry here on lawandstyle.ca. The Short Cellar column appears in the print edition of Precedent. Matthew can be reached at matthew@lawandstyle.beta-site.ca