Malbec is a moody grape — at its worst, it’s parsimonious or simple, but in the right hands, it can be intense, brooding and delicious. Last week I reviewed two good French Malbecs. Although France is the home of this varietal, its popularity there is declining because it rarely develops its best expression outside the tiny region of Cahors near Toulouse. In Argentina, however, Malbec has flourished so well that it is now the national varietal; there is something about the Argentinean terroir that can bring out the lush quality of the grape without sacrificing its customary grip and structure.
Unfortunately, the commercial success of Malbec has led Argentina to flood the market with cheap, boozy incarnations of the grape — sometimes it seems Argentina is in a race to Australia to see who can debase their own currency the fastest. That’s why I’m pleased to report that, on May 29, Vintages is releasing an excellent Argentinean Malbec, the sort of bottle that should lead the way.
Here’s my review:
Finca el Origen 2008 Gran Reserva Malbec, Argentina ($24.95 [Ed. note: No longer available], Vintages #65425)
This Malbec comes from Finca el Origen’s Esperanza Vineyard in Mendoza, which is at the foot of the Andes, about 1200 meters above sea level. The altitude has created a classic expression of Malbec’s characteristic flavours, especially smoke, bracken and tar. The fruit is massive but not sloppy, and it’s carried by a stiff and chewy structure of tannin and bright acid — I particularly enjoyed the notes of fresh blueberry. Delicious. 90/100
On the topic of excellent wine, I would be falling down in my duty to God and country if I didn’t bring your attention to a superb Ontario Riesling that’s recently appeared and is now steadily disappearing. Check this one out; it’s one of the best values I’ve seen in months:
Megalomaniac 2007 Narcissist Riesling, Niagara Escarpment ($17.95, Vintages #67587)
This is an utterly astounding value. The bouquet is dignified and tensile, with classic notes of petrol and the rubber from a brand-new garbage can. It tastes of an elegant blend of juicy McIntosh apple, peach and Bartlett pear — all touched by a gentle caramelized sweetness. The acidity is polite, the texture is creamy, the finish is long. If I tasted this good, I would also be a megalomaniacal narcissist. 91/100
Matthew Sullivan is a civil litigator in Toronto. He blogs weekly here on lawandstyle.ca. The Short Cellar column also appears in the print edition of Precedent. Matthew can be reached at matthew@lawandstyle.beta-site.ca. Follow along on Twitter: @shortcellar.