The Chase
10 Temperance Street | 647.348.7000 | thechasetoronto.com
The Chase is a challenging restaurant. First, there’s finding it. But, since its surrounded by construction on three sides, this isn’t The Chase’s fault. After stepping on temporary ramps, picking our way through gravel and dodging reversing dump trucks, my guests and I arrive at The Chase. Or at least we think it’s The Chase. Instead, it turns out that the inviting lounge with the patio is The Chase: Fish and Oyster, and is not to be confused with The Chase, full stop. A jovial waiter tells us this happens all the time and we need to go back outside and down the alley around the corner. I’m thinking two thoughts: (a) if this happens “all the time”, fix it; and (b) alley . . . ?
The alley is actually a pleasant walkway with exposed brick, (faux) candles and leafy palms. A left turn takes us through doors and . . . back to The Chase: Fish and Oyster. Except now we’re at the rear of it. Standing at rapt attention with bleached teeth and matching little black dresses are two hostesses, who simultaneously greet us and direct us to an elevator behind us. After an eternity waiting for the elevator, we ascend to The Chase on the fifth floor penthouse where we are greeted by two more hostesses with bright teeth and little black dresses.
The Chase is an interesting hybrid: it’s located in the downtown core, yet rather than seeking out the crowd that works downtown, it tries to attract the new generation of those who live downtown. It wants to bring finer dining back to the core at a time when many of the Financial District restaurants that established themselves as places of fine dining are moving toward a hipper and more casual approach.
The Chase occupies a custom-built penthouse on the top of the Victorian Dineen building. It has a rooftop terrace that can hold its own against any of Toronto’s finer patios and an inside/outside bar. On the other side of the floor is a dining room that is both modern and plush — a rarity in the current architectural environment that skews toward hard surfaces. There is ample space between tables and the room is pleasantly quiet. The two walls of floor-to-ceiling windows mean plenty of light.
We choose the patio and are seated quickly. Now comes the second challenge: the service. There is no shortage of staff, but it is difficult to attract their attention. Familiarity with the wine list and the menu is inconsistent, with one waiter displaying encyclopedic enthusiasm for both while another resorts to crib notes. The service, when available, is good but its neither crisp nor polished.
My dining companion and I choose a series of small plates to share. The avocado stuffed with shrimp and sweet corn on a salad of fennel and celery ($19) is thing of beauty, with vibrant colours and a design that resembles a dragon roll. The avocado and corn are some of the freshest I’ve tasted.
We move on to the mozzarella, made in-house. We get a generous amount nestled amongst strawberries, cucumber, basil and red onions ($18). The effort of making the mozzarella in-house comes through — this is some of the best mozzarella in town and, paired with the aged balsamic and fresh strawberries, this dish is worth revisiting again and again.
We are still dazzled by the freshness of the mozzarella and the avocado and when the scallops arrive, they disappoint. The scallops aren’t bad, but they are overwhelmed by the standout part of the dish, which is a sweet mash of garden peas, crunchy toasty quinoa and crispy ham hocks ($29). A soft poached egg sits atop the green pea mash, but adds nothing to the dish.
Next, we split a main of ravioli stuffed with smoked ricotta, plum tomatoes and basil ($21). The dish is small, but well executed. The smoked ricotta takes this simple dish up a notch, and the crisp acidity of the tomatoes provides a nice counter to the smokiness.
We debate the selections on the small dessert menu, but ultimately settle on flourless cake layered with dark chocolate mousse, milk chocolate cream, white chocolate feuilletine, and hazelnut fudge – basically, a highrolling chocolate lava cake. A small carafe of molten chocolate is poured over the cake and we watch as it slowly implodes, inviting us to attack it with our forks. This is a luscious dessert, best split between two people.
The menu will lighten your wallet by a significant amount and it remains to be seen if those without an expense account will flock here. The food is unmatched for its freshness and its execution is superb, and the rooftop patio and bar will certainly pull people from the likes of Bymark and Vertical. For the price, however, I expect a more cohesive restaurant feel and nothing less than exceptional service. The Chase is still young, barely 4 months old, with time to raise these items up to match the food.
Judge Foodie’s verdict
Highs: quality and presentation of food; reasonable noise levels
Lows: inconsistent service; complicated entrance
Kirsten Thompson is a Toronto-based research lawyer and commercial litigator. Since her call to the bar in 2000, she estimates that her restaurant to courtroom ratio has been approximately 14:1. Thoughts? Comments? Ideas for a review? Email her. Follow Judge Foodie on Twitter: @Judge_Foodie