Yesterday I tasted the entire range of the LCBO’s general release of 2008 Nouveau Beaujolais. Although a few of my wine-junky friends are skeptical about Nouveau Beaujolais, my overall impression of the 2008 vintage is very positive. In the worst years, these wines can taste like a melted popsicle of the non-descript “purple” flavour, but these were vivacious and acidic. Instead of cloying notes of maraschino cherry, I found the predominant flavour in these wines to be the tartness of pink and white grapefruits.
Here are my tasting notes:
- Duboeuf Gamay Nouveau ($8.95, France, LCBO #891846)
The best nose of 2008; a lovely hit of ripe black cherries. The palate has juicy acids that keep the sweet fruits very much in check. Mainly tastes of pink grapefruit – nice but not complex. A very traditional Beaujolais and a solid value.
- Mommessin Beaujolais Nouveau (
$13.45[Ed. note: No longer available], France, LCBO #112458)
The shatter-proof plastic bottle is a nice touch if you like to swig Nouveau while playing roller derby, although the label looks like a cheap knockoff from the Lava Life advertising campaign. A stupidly over-priced wine. Main note: tangerine. No bouquet to speak of.
- Bichot Beaujolais Nouveau (
$13.45[Ed. note: No longer available], France, LCBO #112409)
Tastes like a ribbon of citrus laced with some strawberry. A friend of mine observed, “It’s not a fighting wine – more like a little girl wine.” I believe that’s a kind of compliment. The Bichot is more complex than the Mommessin, but a little too expensive.
- Jeanjean Syrah Primeur ($10.05, France LCBO #899948)
Not a true Nouveau Beaujolais because it’s not from the Beaujolais region and it is not made from the traditional Gamay grape but from Syrah (aka Shiraz). Syrah results in a heavier and more peppery taste, although it maintains the bright cherry and raspberry notes that characterize Nouveau wines. Good if you find most Nouveaus wines too light for your taste.
- Novello del Veneto ($8.65, Italy, LCBO #899955)
An easy-drinking mash of blood orange, cherry and raspberry. Lovely finish of oranges. A great value if you prize “smooth” wines.
- Mezzacorona Novio Novello (
$9.95[Ed. note: No longer available], Italy, LCBO #669275)
Creepy cat eyes on the label. Nevertheless, I concur with Gord Stimmel at the Toronto Star that this wine is by far the best value of the 2008 Nouveau release. It actually has something approaching complexity (very unusual for new wines!) with its swirl of berry, citrus and red liquorice. It also has a nice body or texture in the mouth. I highly recommend it!
Matthew Sullivan is a civil litigator in Toronto. He writes a weekly blog entry here on lawandstyle.ca. The Short Cellar column appears in the print edition of Precedent. Matthew can be reached at matthew@lawandstyle.beta-site.ca